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While preparing a guide to Italian noodles, a friend originally from Naples advised treating lasagne as if it were architectural layout. The concept is to start by calculating the measurements of your baking dish relative to the pasta sheets, then choose the layer count to adequately balance the components. Additionally, we agreed that constructing a lasagne should blend the methodical approach of a craftsman with the freeform style of a splatter artist when applying the sauces.

Handling the Lasagne Noodles

The ceramic lasagne dish is sized a medium rectangular shape, and three 4x10 inch dried lasagne sheets form a complete tier. To prepare a stacked lasagne, you’ll need approximately three boxes’ worth. Many contemporary dried lasagne does not require soaking in advance, but the noodles depend heavily on a fairly wet sauce to hydrate fully. Given that the following dish uses a thick and rich sauce, I prefer to quickly blanch the sheets in simmering liquid for 30 seconds, then move them into cold water and arrange them on a clean cloth to air-dry. This process speeds up the final cooking, which helps preserve the tender quality of the zucchini and soft cheese mixture.

Flexible Cheese Options

Mindful of the rising price of cheese—plus what might be available in your fridge—we include a flexible amount of portions for the fresh cheese, aged cheese and or taleggio or asiago. It’s possible to swap in other cheeses depending on what you have in stock, and adjust with bold flavors and fresh herbs. What truly enhances the flavor, however, is initially frying the diced zucchini in extra virgin oil with a a bit of salt. Don’t worry about to overcook them—since they’ll continue cooking in the baking process, combining with the white sauce and dairy which serves as a holding layer for the lasagne.

The Waiting Game

I firmly believe, lasagne is always improved if you give it time for no less than 20 minutes before dishinig out—and up to an hour in a slightly heated spot. This waiting period gives the ingredients to develop and the finished product—especially the cheese—to become sliceable. As a result, it divides easily into pieces. Naturally, the last portion enjoyed the day after is truly the ultimate reward.

Lasagne with Courgette and Three Cheeses

Serves four to six

Fifteen dried lasagne sheets, sufficient to make a stacked dish

A generous splash good-quality oil, plus extra for oiling the dish

3 large or 4 medium zucchinis, cubed into small cubes

Salt and black pepper

14 ounces soft white cheese

A packed spoonful freshly cut herbs

About a third of a cup unsalted butter, and more for scattering

Roughly half a cup plain flour

800ml whole milk

Grated nutmeg

A good handful parmesan, shredded

4-7 ounces semi-soft cheese, cubed chunks

Two tablespoons dried breadcrumbs

Instructions

Handle the lasagne sheets following the packet instructions; should you pre-cook them, place them on cloth linens until ready to use.

Heat the oil in a skillet over medium flame, then sauté the chopped squash with a bit of seasoning, tossing gently until they just begin to soften. Keep in mind they will continue to soften in the oven, so take off the flame and let cool for 10 minutes. Mix in the ricotta, marjoram and another touch of salt.

Heat the butter in a pan, then incorporate the flour and whisk to make a smooth mixture. Slowly whisk in the whole milk and simmer, whisking continuously, until the creamy sauce thickens. Season with seasonings, a pinch of nutmeg and a tablespoon of the grated parmesan.

Brush the base of an casserole with oil, add a thin layer of the white sauce, then create a bottom level of lasagna layers. Spread another layer using a fifth of the sauce, topped with a quarter of the zucchini and cheese, a bit of the cubed cheese and a sprinkling of parmesan. Continue with another noodle tier, then repeat the process three more times, finishing with a last sheet of pasta. Cover that with the remaining bechamel, the toasted crumbs and dots of butter, then bake at 200C (180C fan)/390F for about half an hour, or until the sides are golden and the top is beautifully baked.